Dale Galvin, Rare’s Chief Operating Officer, blogs about his trip to Fiji where he joined a hard-working Rare team to host a social marketing workshop for potential Pride campaign partners in the region. Follow Dale’s adventures as he and his team witness local conservation efforts to protect marine species, introduce regional conservation experts to Rare’s methodology and share how the Pride campaign model can support lasting conservation impact in their communities.

Still recovering from my Fijian flu and an overdose of kava, I was actually considering bailing on the Sunday dive trip to the Beqa (pronounced Benga) Lagoon, another locally managed protected area; I’m glad I didn’t.
There, a local dive operator, Beqa Adventure Divers, runs a special “shark dive,” wherein they chum the waters to attract sharks. It’s not unusual for the dive to attract many species of shark, including the two most dangerous after great whites, bull and tiger sharks. In addition, grey reef, white tip, silver tip, and lemon sharks are common.
We did not arrange to do the shark dive, but instead planned on a standard coral reef visit. I have mixed emotions about a shark feed. On the one hand, the positives are that awareness is raised about sharks and their habitat (and the fact that they are not as dangerous as the media portrays), and in this case, significant funds from each dive (FJD$20 per diver) goes back to the community in return for the protection. The safety record, at least here in Fiji, is spotless.
However, there are downsides. Safety is one of them. Last year, a diver was killed in a shark feed in the Bahamas, when a shark mistook his leg for food. Also, the feeding habituates the sharks to feeding, disrupting their natural instincts. Sometimes sharks get disoriented and wander off from their usual habitats, following boat noise, looking for food handouts, etc. Confused sharks can threaten fishermen and local populations. Lastly, a shark feed is a contrived setting, in which you are not actually seeing the behavior of an animal in the wild. It’s more like going to the zoo.
So all that said, I was happy to do a plain old coral reef dive, but even happier when I found out we were going near the same sites they did the shark feeding, so sharks were likely to be hanging around. Conditions were perfect – flat seas, 70 feet of visibility, and 74 degree water.

White Tip shark.
Being first off the boat, I looked down through my goggles and saw huge schools of fish – giant trevally, other jacks, and groupers swarming at 30 feet I descended to 100 feet when I saw my first glimpse of a grey reef shark in the distance. I swam towards it. Soon, an enormous bull shark circled around, followed by another, then another. Sharks were everywhere, including one eight-foot pregnant bull shark.

Pregnant Bull shark.
They stayed at a cautious distance, clearly wondering if there was going to be a feeding, and not interested in getting too close to the divers otherwise. After chasing them around for a while snapping photos, I looked back for my group and couldn’t see them. I realized I had been at 120 ft for a little too long and was sucking down air like coca cola, so I headed back and ultimately found the group. We all hung out there for a little bit, watching more shark activity, and then ascended up the coral reef. Close to the surface, I saw a few white-tip reef sharks nosing around.

Giant Trevally.

Clownfish in the reef.

School of Longfin Bannerfish.
Struggling to stay down as long as possible, but with my computer telling me I was both out of air and bordering on nitrogen overload, I headed to the boat. It was a fantastic dive! One of the best dives of my life, though it was not without casualties. The first was my rare colleague Adam, who surfaced looking the same shade of green as the bumphead parrotfish. He spent the remaining 3 hours of the trip huddled seasick over the side of the boat (he wasn’t the only one, however, a number of other passengers were sick, despite a lack of waves). Two other passengers removed their gear and had blood streaming down their faces – not a shark bite however but just some imploded sinuses. They were so happy about the dive they didn’t seem bothered. Adam was valiant and an hour after the dive was eating goat curry, happy as a giant clam.
Despite a few physical calamities, it was a great dive and a great day (the second was more mellow and shallow – I did see a few sharks and a turtle, and the biodiversity of the fish was really impressive). The best part (other than the bull sharks), was seeing how productive a protected reef can be, and how benefits can accrue to the local community.

According to Dale there’s a turtle on the sea bottom. Do you see it?